Welcome! We provide custom made cast nets for the serious and professional angler. Each one of our nets are made to fit your own individual need, which includes; size of mesh , length of net , the amount of weight and length of line. Contact us to discuss your needs ! Charlie Kay (718) 667-8730 Cell (917) 273-9725 Email: charliekecn@aol.com
Capt. Andy Locascio “Northeast Angling exclusively uses them” “East Coast nets are one of the best nets I have ever thrown”
Charlie, Here is a pix of my son, Hunter, with his first striper. You met him when I picked up my net. This was his first striper---caught on freshly netted BUNKER!. I was definitely more excited than he was. Thanks again. The net is awesome and your guidance on throwing it was invaluable. Best money I ever spent on fishing gear!! Joe Bartnicki
Welcome! We provide custom made cast nets for the seri- ous and professional angler. Each one of our nets are made to fit your own individual need, which includes; size of mesh , length of net , the amount of weight and length of line. Contact us to discuss your needs ! Charlie Kay (718) 667-8730 Cell (917) 273-9725 Email: charliekecn@aol.com
Capt. Andy Locascio “Northeast Angling exclusively uses them” “East Coast nets are one of the best nets I have ever thrown”
Charlie, Here is a pix of my son, Hunter, with his first striper. You met him when I picked up my net. This was his first striper---caught on freshly netted BUNKER!. I was definitely more excited than he was. Thanks again. The net is awesome and your guidance on throw- ing it was invaluable. Best money I ever spent on fishing gear!! Joe Bartnicki
HOW TO THROW A CAST NET There are many ways to throw a Cast Net , this method eliminates the need of putting the net between your teeth to help load the net. It also puts the weight of the net onto your shoulders so you can search for the bait longer without fatigue. These Instructions are for right handed anglers, switch hands and shoulder directions if you are left handed
STEP 1: Secure Throw Rope on left hand and coiled in a counter clockwise direction (CCW), Grasp the horn of the net with left hand, and then slide right hand down the net and stop where net is at waist high.
STEP 2: Coil the net CCW forming 1 loop at waist high, hold in left hand.
STEP 3: Reach down with your right hand and grab the Lead line, Throw it over your left shoulder and let it rest. Place your right hand in net.
STEP 4: With your right hand into the net gently begin to fan the net onto the right shoulder until 1/2 of the net is resting on it.
HOW TO THROW A CAST NET There are many ways to throw a Cast Net , this method elimi- nates the need of putting the net between your teeth to help load the net. It also puts the weight of the net onto your shoul- ders so you can search for the bait longer without fatigue. These Instructions are for right handed anglers, switch hands and shoulder directions if you are left handed
STEP 1: Secure Throw Rope on left hand and coiled in a counter clockwise direction (CCW), Grasp the horn of the net with left hand, and then slide right hand down the net and stop where net is at waist high.
STEP 2: Coil the net CCW forming 1 loop at waist high, hold in left hand.
STEP 3: Reach down with your right hand and grab the Lead line, Throw it over your left shoulder and let it rest. Place your right hand in net.
STEP 4: With your right hand into the net gently begin to fan the net onto the right shoulder until 1/2 of the net is resting on it.
Throwing instructions Continued
STEP 5: Place your hand in between the net and gently slide the netting off your right shoulder into your right hand catching it between your thumb and pointer finger
STEP 6: Here's the tricky part once you have the net between your thumb and your pointer finger flip your wrist so the lean line is now on top of the netting and slide the netting between your pinky and the middle finger. Then grasp the lead line between your thumb and pointer finger as shown in figure
STEP7: Begin to throw the net from left to right in an UPWARD ARK, the last thing that you let go is the lead line between your fingers By holding it to the last possible second you will force the net to open in
Throwing instructions Continued
STEP 5: Place your hand in between the net and gently slide the netting off your right shoulder into your right hand catching it between your thumb and pointer finger
STEP 6: Here's the tricky part once you have the net between your thumb and your pointer finger flip your wrist so the lean line is now on top of the netting and slide the netting between your pinky and the middle finger. Then grasp the lead line between your thumb and pointer finger as shown in figure
STEP7: Begin to throw the net from left to right in an UPWARD ARK, the last thing that you let go is the lead line between your fingers By holding it to the last possible second you will force the net to open in
Catching Bait
Avoid Spooking the bait! the most common mistake and the one that will get you into trouble with your fellow netters is driving through a school of popping bunker. The best approach is drifting through with your engine off. There are times when the bait are thin on top, spread out and spooky, this is the hardest time for a netter the last thing you need is more pressure. Using Electronics Rather than settling for less bait with more throws I choose to find thicker schools by using my boat electronics (fish finder) to locate the bait. paying Bait under the boat can appear as anything from a lump to mountain, sometimes extending from the bot- tom or suspended off the bottom. To avoid over shooting you must know the location of the boats transducer is very important in pinpointing where the bait is in relation to the boat. Have the net loaded and ready to throw. watch the screen as you begin the drift over the school; remember to calculate the nets position in reference to where the boat transducer is mounted. You should start the throw at the point where the school first appears on the screen. This will allow the net enough time to open and sink over the most bait. Let the net sink to near bottom before pulling the net up, as you pull the net up your success will be obvious by that telltale feeling of a full net of the bait fish trying to escape. Unloading the net once the net is up at the side of the boat. I have seen so many people just pull the net over the side this can result in a torn net and more importantly a sore back. Keep in mind the net is usually made of mono that is 15-20 test and now you have load from 20-200 lbs in the net. Instead pull the net to the boat and grasp the Horn (the plastic ring) and the pull rope. Hold them both in the left hand and with the right reach down and grasp a piece of the net lifting a portion at a time in the boat this will save both you and the net. Now get the horn and rope in the right hand and lift the left side. Now what you are in the boat with a net full of bait, grasp the horn only and lift it as high as you can. Depending on the size of your net you may have to get stand up on an upper deck, cooler, chair, bucket or a motor cover to fully extend the net. Now start shaking the net most all the bait should fall into the boat. If you have a live well in your deck or a large basket shake the net into them, this speeds up the process and keeps the boat cleaner. There are times when the last bat fish in the net are stuck in the net webbing (gilled). REMEMBER TAKE ONLY WHAT YOU CAN USE they are a gift from the fish gods and abuse gets everyone upset. Proper storage and care of the net will increase the life of the net and will avoid the net from tarring prematurely. Before I leave the dock I usually fill a 5 gallon bucket with a cap full of soap and fresh water (Salt water is OK in a pinch). Once I’m finished catching bait I will put the whole net and line in in the bucket until I get back to the dock. Once back at the dock I rinse the net with fresh water to remove any soap residue, stretch the net and let it dry. Every 4-5 usages of the net I will substitute the soap for fabric softener this will give you a much more pliable net and it smells great. Storage is the one thing I see most people do wrong. The key is to have a dry net in storage and never store a wet net. However there are times when it is not possible to completely dry a net before storage example; rainy days, nights, and no time. The one thing that will kill a net (besides a blue fish) is storing moist net in a bucket with no holes at the bottom and around the sides. A moist net will retain some water and it will then start to fill the very bottom of the bucket. A net left sitting in water and heat from trapped air will prematurely break down the mono and shorten the life of the net. The holes in the bucket allow the moisture to weep out and the air to circulate.
Catching Bait
Avoid Spooking the bait! the most common mistake and the one that will get you into trouble with your fellow netters is driving through a school of popping bunker. The best approach is drifting through with your engine off. There are times when the bait are thin on top, spread out and spooky, this is the hardest time for a netter the last thing you need is more pressure. Using Electronics Rather than settling for less bait with more throws I choose to find thicker schools by using my boat electronics (fish finder) to locate the bait. paying Bait under the boat can appear as anything from a lump to mountain, sometimes extending from the bottom or suspended off the bottom. To avoid over shooting you must know the location of the boats transducer is very important in pinpointing where the bait is in relation to the boat. Have the net loaded and ready to throw. watch the screen as you begin the drift over the school; remember to calcu- late the nets position in reference to where the boat transducer is mounted. You should start the throw at the point where the school first appears on the screen. This will allow the net enough time to open and sink over the most bait. Let the net sink to near bottom before pulling the net up, as you pull the net up your success will be obvious by that telltale feeling of a full net of the bait fish trying to escape. Unloading the net once the net is up at the side of the boat. I have seen so many people just pull the net over the side this can result in a torn net and more importantly a sore back. Keep in mind the net is usually made of mono that is 15-20 test and now you have load from 20-200 lbs in the net. Instead pull the net to the boat and grasp the Horn (the plastic ring) and the pull rope. Hold them both in the left hand and with the right reach down and grasp a piece of the net lifting a portion at a time in the boat this will save both you and the net. Now get the horn and rope in the right hand and lift the left side. Now what you are in the boat with a net full of bait, grasp the horn only and lift it as high as you can. Depending on the size of your net you may have to get stand up on an upper deck, cooler, chair, bucket or a motor cover to fully extend the net. Now start shaking the net most all the bait should fall into the boat. If you have a live well in your deck or a large basket shake the net into them, this speeds up the process and keeps the boat cleaner. There are times when the last bat fish in the net are stuck in the net webbing (gilled). REMEMBER TAKE ONLY WHAT YOU CAN USE they are a gift from the fish gods and abuse gets everyone upset. Proper storage and care of the net will increase the life of the net and will avoid the net from tarring prematurely. Before I leave the dock I usually fill a 5 gallon bucket with a cap full of soap and fresh water (Salt water is OK in a pinch). Once I’m finished catching bait I will put the whole net and line in in the bucket until I get back to the dock. Once back at the dock I rinse the net with fresh water to remove any soap residue, stretch the net and let it dry. Every 4-5 usages of the net I will substitute the soap for fabric softener this will give you a much more pliable net and it smells great. Storage is the one thing I see most people do wrong. The key is to have a dry net in storage and never store a wet net. However there are times when it is not possible to completely dry a net before stor- age example; rainy days, nights, and no time. The one thing that will kill a net (besides a blue fish) is storing moist net in a bucket with no holes at the bottom and around the sides. A moist net will retain some water and it will then start to fill the very bottom of the bucket. A net left sitting in water and heat from trapped air will prematurely break down the mono and shorten the life of the net. The holes in the bucket allow the moisture to weep out and the air to circulate.
Cleaning & Storage
Proper storage and care of the net will increase the life of the net and will avoid the net from tarring prema- turely. Before I leave the dock I usually fill a 5 gallon bucket with a cap full of soap and fresh water (Salt water is OK in a pinch). Once I’m finished catching bait I will put the whole net and line in in the bucket until I get back to the dock. Once back at the dock I rinse the net with fresh water to remove any soap residue, stretch the net and let it dry. Every 4-5 usages of the net I will substitute the soap for fabric softener this will give you a much more pliable net and it smells great. Storage is the one thing I see most people do wrong. The key is to have a dry net in storage and never store a wet net. However there are times when it is not possible to completely dry a net before storage example; rainy days, nights, and no time. The one thing that will kill a net (besides a blue fish) is storing moist net in a bucket with no holes at the bottom and around the sides. A moist net will retain some water and it will then start to fill the very bottom of the bucket. A net left sitting in water and heat from trapped air will prematurely break down the mono and shorten the life of the net. The holes in the bucket allow the moisture to weep out and the air to circulate.
Cleaning & Storage
Proper storage and care of the net will increase the life of the net and will avoid the net from tarring prematurely. Before I leave the dock I usually fill a 5 gallon bucket with a cap full of soap and fresh water (Salt water is OK in a pinch). Once I’m finished catching bait I will put the whole net and line in in the bucket until I get back to the dock. Once back at the dock I rinse the net with fresh water to remove any soap residue, stretch the net and let it dry. Every 4-5 usages of the net I will substitute the soap for fabric softener this will give you a much more pliable net and it smells great. Storage is the one thing I see most people do wrong. The key is to have a dry net in storage and never store a wet net. How- ever there are times when it is not possible to completely dry a net before storage example; rainy days, nights, and no time. The one thing that will kill a net (besides a blue fish) is storing moist net in a bucket with no holes at the bottom and around the sides. A moist net will retain some water and it will then start to fill the very bottom of the bucket. A net left sitting in water and heat from trapped air will prematurely break down the mono and shorten the life of the net. The holes in the
